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Sali, Dugi Otok, Sunday 5 June

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Boznor’s idea of a tour is to drive to the far end of the island, stopping off along the way to call in on people he knows. The scenery provides itself.

The island in real terms is deserted. Most villages have 20, 50 permanent residents, with houses built for more. The rest have gone overseas or to the mainland to work. Its mostly old people on pensions who stay. They have the same problem as us with dwindling country towns.

Tiny as it is, Sali is one of the busiest places. Some of the other towns are set up more for tourists…Bozava for example has hotels, two diving centres, tennis courts and so on, but there wasn’t much on today. Peak is in July/August, where I imagine it will be awful here for people like us seeking peace and quiet.

Lighthouse stairs

At the very end of the island is a lighthouse. Boznor, of course, knows the lighthouse keeper, and he sent us on ahead to climb up to the top while he sat and chatted with the lighthouse-keeper. A self-guided tour, we climbed up and unroped the outside terrace to climb out and look out towards nothing, just blue and blue haze. The lighthouse-keeper was a Mullet-man, with a magnificent swept back hairdo and tiny shorts and too-small t-shirt. He was like a guard-dog that was sort-of friendly. Boznor coaxed a drink out of him, and lighthouse-man poured us a stiff chilled Galliano-like spirit. We sat in the shade and sipped that while the chaps, then another woman chatted. The big topic of conversation is the lack of rain.

We got back at lunchtime from Boznor’s tour, and gave the pizza place another go. This time we used the printed menu and pointed to the pictures of the Four Corners and marinara pizza. It’s hopeless. What we got back were the same pizzas as last time, although mine had tuna chunks on it.

I looked around and everyone else was getting the same thing. Whatever.

This afternoon is the local rest day, most things closed and a raucous singing party up on the terrace restaurant. One person starts off, then more and more join in, someone singing harmony, lots of laughing.

The disastrous siesta struck again, and we both flaked for more than an hour.

Albatross out for a stroll

Wandering around after dinner we bumped into Gert sitting at the pizza restaurant on the docks. (Surely that qualifies as Gert by Sea?) We were supposed to ring him to confirm the dive tomorrow, but did it face-to-face. He unenthusiastically agreed he would be there at 9.00, but we both walked off skeptical that he would show up. He put in a proviso that it depended on the weather, and the forecast was rain…..

Written by wurstofvienna2011

June 5, 2011 at 1:38 pm

Posted in Uncategorized

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